Fall Desert Insertion #1
Drybag Testing in Zion's Subway; Sanity Testing on Angel's Landing.
By Christopher Lindley, October 2008
Zion Canyon Overlook Trail
Lower Calf Falls, near Boulder, Utah.
Monarch Cave.
Circumstance recently presented an opportunity to visit Zion, a National Park I'd been through several times, but never was able to stay and explore. The park has the potential for spectacular landscape photography, and although this wasn't a trip oriented around photography, we would be visiting The Subway, a unique drainage through a remote area of the park. Trouble was, our route to this photogenic feature would require a 9½ mile hike through deep pools and as well as a technical descent. I already knew my Gitzo tripod wasn't going to make the trip - I'd had difficulty with it surviving water previously.

I went back and forth on carrying the Canon 5D, too. I hadn't any experience with the effectiveness of "dry bags", and didn't know whether I could trust $5000 worth of camera to them. Just before the trip, I decided I'd take the Canon G9 - if the bag leaked, no big deal - the loss would be an order of magnitude less.

Inside Pefect Kiva.

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But First - Angel's Landing

Our first challenge of the trip had to be, of course, Angel's Landing. Readers of my essays know that I'm not exactly fond of heights - especially those pesky 1200' sheer drop-offs. My companions were two doctors of analytical chemistry and a bicycle store owner, but what I really needed was a psychiatrist. I'm sorry to report that I have few photos of the adventure, because I tend to use both hands while shooting. I should also apologize to all of the people trying to pass me when I wouldn't let go of the chains, and to the lady whose knee I inadvertently grabbed.

One of our oh-so-analytical doctors tried to assure me that one wouldn't misstep just because of the height. Logically I had to agree. But to me, this wasn't that sort of problem. My mind had neatly side-stepped sensible argument long ago, finding contentment in the philosophy of it's own panic. I adopt a nervous fascination when the error margins are greatly diminished, such as when you're looking straight down into the gaping maw of certain doom.  Unlike my favorite video games, this player would not automatically respawn.

Angel's Landing is an extremely popular hike in Zion - however, some very smart people will just not do it. The weird thing is, you get used to the heights (not that I was looking); it was easier for me to go down than come up.

That concluded the major hike of the day, but we also did some hiking around the Emerald Pools and up to Weeping Rock.  On the bus ride up to these sights, you'll not be surprised to learn that many of the valley's geological features were named through the filter of religious anthropomorphism by the early Methodist ministers and Mormons:  The Pulpit, the Three Patriarchs, The White Throne, and we suppose Angel's Landing itself. Ironically, I thought Angel's landing would be a great place to meet one's maker.

Pottery shards at Perfect Kiva.
Modified Panorama #1
On the way up Angels Landing.
Jack inspects Perfect Kiva.
"Static Discarge" Ruin.
Into (and out of) the Subway
Pottery shards at Perfect Kiva.
Our group's intrigue-level went up several notches for what would be the high point of the trip (arguments in favor of the elevations reached the previous day notwithstanding). One of our gang had done this particular hike before, and knew that the canyon could throw a few things at you: You either had the right gear, or you took your chances.

We had the right gear. It was my first real use of dry-bags for their intended purpose, and I came away impressed. The G9, clothes, GPS, and lunch went into the dry bag, which - buoyant during the short, cold swims - held my day-pack up on the water's surface as I swam to the other end of the pools. And armed with rope, webbing, and a belay device purchased the evening before, we took advantage of a permanently-placed bolt to descend to the photogenic pools in the subway below.

I knew my ankle was much recovered from the misfortune I suffered during my Slickhorn Canyon hike - I hiked the entire day in Teva sandals, including the rappel into the subway. One hiker wasn't so lucky:  A small number of folks chose to descend the fast way - by jumping into the narrow pools. One woman broke her ankle doing this, and had to hike out over four miles, supported by her friends ... and a pair of trekking poles which we had lent her.

Another ruin.
Some falls after the rain.
A Narrows hike in 47° water - and we're gone
The following day we hiked a few miles up The Narrows, which is at the end of the road in Zion Canyon. The Visitor's Center information board informed us that the water was 47° - which took several minutes to get used to. Armed with hiking sticks to aid in negotiating the underwater boulders, lots of like-minded folks were also headed up-canyon for a hike. The pictures seen here were hand-held. It's quite stunning:  I took over fifty shots, the camera carried over my shoulder. Fortunately, I didn't fall in.

We left Zion and pulled into Bryce Canyon for a quick hike, and spent the night at Kodachrome State Park, for a hot shower (or two!). We wound our way north to Escalante - stopping at the Escalante Outfitters - a recreational store with lots of essentials, and where the internet-deprived can surf while sipping a latte. The nearby Kiva Koffeehouse might have better views, but they don't have a liquor store.

Our coffee quest continued the next day, after camping near Capitol Reef National Park. Morning found us at the Robber's Roost Bookstore in Torrey, another cool place with books & internet... and bad coffee. The barrista was undoubtedly unaware that three analytical chemists had entered their fair establishment; we were expecting the subtle nuances, acidity, and aromas of the bean's volatile organic constituents to emanate from our morning cup (1, 2, 3, 4), but were instead served something that tasted very close to instant. Indeed, we suspect there may have been no fresh coffee in the entire town of Torrey. Beware of Torrey in the morning, fellow traveller!

A last push into Denver, a couple of days rest (including attending October's First Friday Art Walk), and I'd be ready for Fall Desert Insertion #2.